The Wines of the Hollick Family

In the heart of the Coonawarra... Where? Oh.
Coonawarra is a precious wine growing district 12km long and 2km wide. It is situated on the Limestone Coast about 375 km south of Adelaide in South Australia. It is equidistant between Adelaide and Melbourne, if you happen to be in the other Southern City. This is the home of Australian Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Margaret River as its only rival.

What makes it so special? It is the rich red Terra Rossa soil; a combination of clay or marl, with underlying limestone. It allows restricted access to a pure underground water supply. This is combined with a long cool ripening season for the grapes, offered by the southerly location - closer to the South Pole, you understand.

We hear a lot about drought in Australia and this is very true. It is worth noting however that Australia is a vast country and Coonawarra benefits from a cool climate and abundant winter rains. The Hollicks started planting Neilson's Block in 1975 and launched the winery in 1983. The age of the Hollicks' vines allows them to sustain the long dry spells with only concentrated fruit to show for it.

Interesting notes:

1. It is about 15 kms away from Penola. This was the home of the Blessed Mary MacKillop, in the process of becoming Australia's first saint. Now you know something new.
2. Ian didn't go to Roseworthy, like most great Australian wine folks. Ian went to Dookie Agricultural College (established 1886). I am only telling you this because I love the name. Go Dookie!

Hollick Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2004
$25.50 per bottle in cases of 12

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Partial barrel fermentation followed by 18 months maturation in a combination of French and American oak, has given the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot an elegant structure and a long finish on the palate. This has up to a decade of cellar time ahead of it, but I had a bottle last night and can see myself drinking more shortly.

Hollick Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2005
$16.99 per bottle in cases of 12

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. Another great year, but I would give these only 4 years to cellar as ½ bottles develop faster. Either that, or just drink them now.

Hollick Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
$23.95 per bottle in cases of 12

This is a classic Australian blend and a staple for Hollick. The 2005 vintage is a blend of 65% Shiraz and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Shiraz here comes from their vineyards in Wrattonbully; the Cabernet comes from their Wilgha vineyard. It spent 18 months in oak. Look for mulberry and prune notes on the palate.

Hollick Pinot Noir 2006
$23.50 per bottle in cases of 12

Ian has been making Pinot since 1986, and the vineyard age really shows here. Some fruit is sourced from vineyard sites even further south (close to Mount Gambier) to ensure better balance and a lightness of touch. Look for dried floral notes (pot-pourri) and fruit notes tending more to the black end of the berry-spectrum.(What? You don't know about the berry spectrum?).

What's happening at Vintages?

For the serious collectors, I noticed that the vintages warehouse has Felsina Fontalloro IGT 2001 - 1500mL (121368) 2001 $199.00 per bottle, available through their classics catalogue. If you love top Brunellos and Vino Nobiles, then this distinctive IGT from Chianti is well worth seeking out.
Keep in mind that they just received Gambero Rosso's Winery of the Year for good reason.

A class of its own

Last year I introduced you to the Macrina Verdicchio and Piancarda Rosso Conero from Garofoli and the response has been brilliant.
One of the least known gems of the Italian peninsula is this small region that runs along its Northern Coast. Here in the Marche you find the real Italy. Beautiful coastline, rolling hills, mouthwatering food and great wine make a wonderful part of the world.
Garofoli has been making the best wines in the Marche since 1871, so it is not surprising that they shine at the top end of wine production too. What is surprising is that the top end doesn’t reach past $50. This is the price of their relative obscurity and the benefits of our exploration.
The 2005 received yet another 2 glass award from Gambero Rosso, putting it in the stratosphere of Montepulciano production.

Garofoli Grosso Agontano Conero Riserva 2005
is $43.50 per bottle in cases of 6

What does it taste like?

The most imposing characteristic of the wine is its aroma of cherries, which is typical of Rosso Cònero. There is a jammy intensity and mouth-coating richness with a dense tannin structure and a hint of licorice root or aniseed. (I know I use that note too often, but I like it and I really get it here. Honest.) The finish has a wonderful length to it. It is destined for long term ageing, but find a decanter or a jug if you want to jump straight in. I really like this.

Why?

Rosso Conero comes from a small outcrop of land that quickly plummets into the sea. Montepulciano is the name of the grape and not to be confused with the Sangiovese made in the region of Montepulciano. Selection of the best grapes and yields in the vineyard that are deliberately kept low confer on this wine a big structure. It is matured for one to two years in small French oak barrels and nearly two years in the bottle before it is released for consumption. The wine is adapted to prolonged aging.

What else?

Garofoli ‘Macrina’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC 2008
for $19.99 per bottle in cases of 12

In order to maintain the style of traditional Verdicchio, yield per hectare is kept low and harvesting is slightly delayed.

Garofoli ‘Piancarda’ Rosso Conero DOC 2006
for 2006 $23.50 per bottle in cases of 12

Piancarda combines the typical aromas of cherries they grow in Rosso Cònero with an imposing but pleasantly soft structure.

What's happening at Vintages?

The Echeverria Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 is now in stores at the brilliant price of $19.95.

This is Chile at its finest. The Echeverria Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is a Keukenmeester family staple, but the Family Reserve is another step above that and at only $3 more per bottle it offers a great opportunity to drink better wine than the price indicates. Serve this blind to friends. I believe most people will not know where it came from and will think you spent more than $30. People who know about wine, that is. If all your friends drink Yellowtail, I’m not making any promises.