Our Wines
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux
Those of you familiar enough with our range will have noticed a gap. Until now, Lifford has not been able to offer anything from the Northern Rhone. We had great Gigondas, Vacyeras and Chateauneuf-du-Pape (all from the south), but we did not have great Syrah from the north.
This is particularly strange, as Steve Campbell and several of us here at Lifford prize Rhone wines very highly. The problem has been finding an estate that makes wines we want to drink and is run by people with whom we want to drink!
This is why it was so exciting when one of our own arrived in the office with a bottle of Côte-Rôtie and we tasted what we had all been seeking for so long. Thanks Adam.
The Syrah of the Northern Rhone (Hermitage, Saint Joseph, Cornas, Côte-Rôtie etc) is unique. It combines the distinctive pepper note of that grape with the elegance of a special climate dominated by the famous Mistral wind. Here you will often find notes of smoky bacon and green olive. What makes Côte-Rôtie so special is its floral delicacy. I am not alone amongst wine professionals in having mistaken it for top end burgundy in a blind tasting. (I often get Echezeaux characteristics; gamey, savoury etc.). In part, this floral character can be attributed to the ability to add up to 5% Viognier to the Syrah. (This is unique to Côte-Rôtie in the Northern Rhone).
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux is perfect for Lifford. It is small, family owned and operated and dedicated to quality above all else. In short, these guys have a big future ahead of them.
This wonderful estate has been operating since 1928 and brothers Benjamin and David are the fourth generation with the Duclaux name to work it. All work on the 30 year old vines is done by hand.
Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux Côte-Rôtie La Germine 2006
$78.95 per bottle in cases of 6
(8 sixpacks available)
What does it taste like?
The dominant note on the nose is white and black pepper. That tells me that time in the cellar will be well repaid. The palate is loaded with black fruit and shares hints of liquorice, forest floor, and smoked bacon. The length is substantial and the wine is beautifully balanced. I would not drink this immediately, but give it a couple of years to improve further. Of course, I expect you to have one early on to confirm my opinion. If so, decant it if you can up to an hour before. When I had it last, it was even better the following day.
Why?
All the grapes are de-stemmed to avoid harsher tannins. The wine was aged in oak for 20 months. 20% of the wood was new. The old vines come from a couple of different plots all on the incredibly steep slopes of Tupin-et- Semons, at the southern end of the appellation, overlooking the Rhone river.
In Robert Parker's most recent review in which he gave this wine 90 points he is quoted:
"Brothers David and Benjamin Duclaux have ratcheted up their game considerably as this has become one of the best of the small estate bottlers of Cote-Rotie."
For those who love the Rhone, you will find everything you are looking for here. For those who are yet to be enchanted, the Brothers Duclaux can explain in one bottle why Côte-Rôtie is considered to be hallowed ground for Syrah.
(Don't miss the Côte-Rôtie video)
The wines of Kaesler Vineyards are a master class in powerful Barossa Shiraz. They are rightly deemed to be some of the best and most powerful wines anywhere in the world.
Kaesler was established in 1893 in the Barossa Valley.
Reid Bosward has been the owner and winemaker at Kaesler since 1999. Today he is one of the most highly regarded producers in the country.
The absolute focus is on quality before profit. The partners take their share in wine, not money.
Through careful pruning and denying the vines water, Reid has cut the yield on his already old vines by a further 40%. The result is intensity rarely seen and exquisite flavour. The ripeness level is high so be prepared for higher alcohol on the label, even if you don’t feel it on the palate.
Kaesler has been awarded the full 5 Stars in the 2009 James Halliday Australian Wine Companion.
2007 Kaesler Shiraz Old Vine
$72.50 per bottle in cases of 6
- 18 months in new French oak
- Alcohol is 16.0%
- This is a blend of 4 parcels of 45 year old Shiraz.
- It will improve over another decade.
- Steak!
Wine Advocate, Jay Miller 91 points
“… Deep purple in color, the expressive nose offers up toast, smoked meat, game, lavender, and blueberry. Structured, firm, and a bit compact on the palate in the style of the vintage, it has attractive flavors …..”
2007 Kaesler Shiraz Stonehorse
$37.95 per bottle in cases of 12
- The wine is a blend of 6 separate vineyards owned and farmed by Reid Bosward.
- The vines are between 15 and 45 years of age
- It spends 12 months in 3 year old barrels for a minimal oak character. (Be aware this is different to the Advocate’s note, which is inaccurate, if you are doing your own research.)
- Enjoy over the next 5 years or so.
- Osso bucco, prime rib and, of course…steak!
Wine Advocate, Jay Miller 90 points
“Aromas of smoked meat, lavender, incense, and blueberry lead to a full-bodied, ripe, succulent, forward Shiraz that can be enjoyed over the next 8 years. It is an excellent value.”
(Don't miss the video we did for Kaesler)
Place your orders today!
Lifford Wine Agency
nick@liffordwineagency.com
Phone: 416-440-4101
3 Washington Syrah Icon Wines
I have often said that you have to be just a little crazy to make great wine. I was told that I was the crazy one. Well, Charles Smith has come to my rescue with his recent blog post.
“… I have decided to make wine on the moon. Here's how I am going to do it: first, I need to get myself a f***ing badass spacesuit. One with some sweet Motorhead or Eagles of Death Metal patches. Now, I guess it will have to have a stadium pal attached--I mean where do you go to the bathroom on the moon?”
I think there is something in that for all of us.
Charles Smith is Food & Wine's 2009 "Winemaker of the Year". He has been called a genius, a terroirist, and an innovator. He is very vocal about what he believes and very serious in his intent to make the best wines in Washington.
He is the man at K Vintners. From northern California, he came to Walla Walla to start K Vintners at the end of 2001 by way of Scandanavia (this explains the hair).
He puts everything into making great wine. He has tiny yields, and equally tiny allocations. He uses native yeast fermentation, some grapes are crushed under foot, others use a gentle basket press and no fining or filtration are used in the cellar. This at once shows a unique style, while allowing the individual vineyards to fully express themselves.
Be warned: All of these wines contain more than 15% alcohol. They do not taste ‘hot’. I’ve had some higher alcohol reds that taste like someone tipped their bourbon in, by accident. This is not a problem here. The wines are well rounded and the alcohol, which is natural in an extracted red from a warm climate, is well integrated. Wahluke Slope has the warmest climates for grape growing in the state. Nonetheless, it is there and not everyone can handle that level of booze. You have been warned!
After raving about 2006, the last thing the Wine Advocate said about K vintners was:
“….a tasting of 2007 barrel samples indicate that the best is yet to come.”
At the time of writing I have 8 twelve-packs of each wine. If you are interested let me know soon.
K Northbridge Vineyard 2007
for $55.95 per bottle in cases of 12
100% Syrah. 243 cases made. The grapes are hand picked and sorted. The skins are punched down like a Burgundy and the barrels used are also Burgundian. This is a big wine.
What does it taste like?
Incredibly concentrated black fruit (both fresh a liqueur notes are expressed) with cigar box and spice. Smith says it’s ‘built like a brick sh*t-house’. I concur.
K The Deal 2007
for $55.95 per bottle in cases of 12 
100% Syrah, planted in 1997. This comes from the Sundance Vineyard of Wahluke Slope. The sandy loam soils and slight northerly aspect provides a cooler growing sight over the warm summer months.
What does it taste like?
Intense quality of blue and black fruit. There are elegant tannins from the nicely integrated oak. This has a great length of finish. This is the most restrained of the wines, but still has a big punch. The Advocate hasn’t tasted this yet, but the last two vintages received 94 points.
K Clifton 2007
for $55.95 per bottle in cases of 12 
100% Syrah. Only 243 cases made for the world. We got 8. This is because it is cropped to a minimum for concentration. The hand picked fruit is foot trodden. It is aged entirely in French oak and 30% of this is new. This is a very intense wine with high alcohol (16.5), high intensity and high impact.
What does it taste like?
Amazingly intense blueberry. Crème de Cassis and mixed berry jam with a surprising freshness and very long and seamless finish. Big and beautiful. I don’t normally like this style, but I have to admit that these are well made wines.
