Like most of you, I don’t spend every night drinking wines that cost more than my monthly cable bill. More often than not you will find me hunting for gems under $20. Wines I can enjoy without worrying about dipping into my son’s college fund.

Viña Echeverría in Molina, Chile has been the source of many of my reasonable reds over the past few years. I think it is time that I gave credit where credit is due. Roberto Echeverría is the chief winemaker at the century old, family owned estate headed by his parents. Roberto and his wife Julia came to visit this year and it was obvious that the passion and dedication is matched only by their sense of fun and enthusiasm for life’s adventure. Roberto’s third great love (after Julia and wine) is roller coasters. Enough said.

I love the Reserve Cabernet ($16.99 per bottle) and the Merlot ($13.99 per bottle) has been a huge hit for us. However, if there is one grape that defines the region and explains the potential for greatness, it has to be Carmenère.

Carmenère is originally a Bordeaux varietal that was believed to be on the verge of extinction due to its susceptibility to oidium and coulure and its relative low yields. These are problems invited by Bordeaux’s weather conditions, but not by those in Chile. In 1994 it was confirmed that Bordeaux cuttings taken and brought to Chile in the 1800s were Carmenère . They were thought to have been Merlot and were used for widespread planting. The fact that they made a deeper, tastier and richer wine than Merlot seems to have gone unnoticed for over a hundred years. Still, now we know why and a grape that struggled in France has flourished in South America. I think that is very cool.

Viña Echeverría Carmenère
for $13.99 per bottle in cases of 12

What does it taste like?

It has a red colour with an intense purple rim. It shares intense aromas of raspberry and cherry with hints of black pepper. It is both smooth and well balanced with a long and pleasant finish. This has got ‘winter weeknights’ written all over it and has enough intensity to put the cork back in and finish it the next day.

Why?

These Carmenère grapes come from ungrafted selected clones of prephylloxera French rootstock. North American rootstocks are not used and nor are any pesticides, herbicides or fungicides. The climatic conditions require none of these. I think the intensity of flavour may, in part, be due to this.

Whats happening at Vintages?

Here are two wines at completely different ends of the spectrum.
First we have a great white from a world famous estate.
Felton Road Central Otago Riesling (132035) 2007 $33.95.
This is what they call an ‘In Store Discovery’ so they are on the shelves at a few stores, but any store can order in a bottle or two for you.

Feted as one of New Zealand's best producers and justifiably so, in my opinion, for time and time again Felton Road's wines triumph against all-comers.’ – Robert Parker

The other is the Noval Tawny Port (41119) for $18.95.
I originally thought this price was for a 375ml bottle, but I’ve seen them and they are full sized. This is phenomenal value for good port and should be added to your Christmas arsenal before they run out.

If you appreciate fine white wine and believe in its potential to age, then read on. Otherwise, I’ll see you next week.

From the time of John Vickory at Leo Buring and Orlando to the modern efforts of Jeffrey Grosset, Clare Valley Riesling has proved to be a stunning, bone-dry white wine that can age beautifully. Trust me. I have had hundreds of these wines over the years and I can draw parallels to the best of white Burgundy and Alsace. I am not kidding.

I know you are from Ontario and think that Riesling has to be sweet. Don’t be fooled. The top offerings from Cave Springs and others can also be wonderful.
Not like this though.

The McNicol Riesling represents the best Andrew Mitchell has to offer. That is a big statement. This is a wonderful wine.

Please keep in mind that only 15 sixpacks exist for Ontario.

This is still a young wine in my eyes with plenty of soft citrus fruit character to complement the powerful mineral notes, which are focused and concentrated.

Mitchell McNicol Riesling 2005

for $46.95 per bottle in cases of 6

The name comes from Andrew’s father, Peter McNicol Mitchell, who’d arrived in Clare to grow grapes in 1949.

What does it taste like?

The McNicol Riesling exhibits a lemon, citrus aroma and flavour with hints of pepper and spice. It is taut, very concentrated. This is till a young wine with at least a decade’s cellaring potential. The palate has exceptional length with intensity and persistence and a fine linear structure. It is already bottle aged and you can drink this now, but hang on to a couple of bottles if you can. I have had some Clare Rieslings that flourished at 20 years of age and this has a chance to join those icons.

Why?

“His hard work provided the ideal foundation for the vineyard, cellars and winemaking philosophy which Jane and I have spent most of our lives developing” – Andrew Mitchell

A single vineyard wine, grown on a stony quartzite hillside at an elevation of 500m. The high elevation means the grapes ripen 2 or 3 weeks later than their standard Watervale offering.
This vineyard has never been irrigated and neither herbicides nor pesticides have been used.
Incidentally, 2005 is universally recognized as a great Clare Valley vintage.

What else?

Andrew Mitchell is one of the pioneers in the use of screwcap and he is a passionate believer in their ability to age both white and red wines to perfection. Every one of his wines that I have tasted has supported his view. Eitherway, don’t be surprised when you don’t need to reach for the cork screw.

My favourite quote from working in London wine shops has to be this one. A middle aged and ‘frightfully proper’ English gentleman entered the store and said this:

“I’m looking for a good white wine, but I don’t want to spend a lot of money. Not Chardonnay. I hate Chardonnay. Do you have a nice Petit Chablis?”

Now of course, Petit Chablis (all Chablis for that matter) is made from Chardonnay. That’s what makes this story so amusing, if you tell it with an exaggerated accent.

However, the underlying point is rather interesting. The French never refer to their wine by grape variety. They want you to classify a wine by its terroir. For those of us who have been subjected to years of over-oaked, leesy, buttery Chardonnays from California and Australia, Petit Chablis isn’t really Chardonnay.

So, what is it?

Chablis is the most northern part of Burgundy, half way between Dijon and Paris. The name derives from the marl and limestone soils that are believed to give the wine its crisp, mineral character. (That is a contentious point, mind you.)
Petit Chablis is produced from those vineyards that are not unique enough to wear the Chablis badge, but still good enough to ride its coat tails. Hence it is called ‘Little Chablis’. It gives the character of Chablis at half the price.

Louis Jadot Petit Chablis 2008

$28.95 per bottle in cases of 12

What does it taste like?

It has a light straw yellow colour with a slight green hint.
A crisp wine that is both vibrant and mellow with a very accessible minerality. This is a supremely drinkable wine in its youth.

Why?

The continental climate (very cold in winter and hot in the summer with frosts in spring) and the marly limestone soils combine to mould the unique character of Chablis wines.
It sees no oak contact. It is aged in the Louis Jadot cellars about 8 months before bottling.
It should be served chilled, and matches very well oysters, shellfish as well as charcuterie. It also makes a great palate refresher and drinks well by itself. The point is, I like it.

What's happening at Vintages?

Another white worthy of attention.

Shaw & Smith Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (LCBO number: 965335) $24.95 per bottle.

This was released through Vintages on October 24th. If there is some there I recommend it very highly. Firstly, it is the only varietal Sauvignon from Australia that I like. Secondly, I really like it. Lastly, it is $3 less than it should be and a great bargain.