Nick KeukenmeesterÍs Wine of the Week
If you want to see the future of great wines at great value, then this is it.
Everyone knows that Petrus is great and the price reflects this. Few outside of Portugal have seen the potential of their great wines and so the prices are relative steals.

You will have great difficulty finding out about this rarity, so let me tell you now. It is my understanding that only 200 cases of this wine were made. We received 10 of them. It is only the second vintage. That’s why no one is bothering to write about it. It is the flagship dry red of this ancient estate. Christian Seely, who heads up Quinta do Noval (and the entire AXA Millesimes group), had been trying to perfect a dry red for many years. This was because international demand for LBV Port had stagnated over recent years and he found himself with top quality grapes that were making a sweet port no one wanted. Being a clever man, he thought it better to make a stunning dry red people would enjoy.

This exemplifies a recent trend in the Douro away from some of the Port styles they are famous for. More and more excellent dry table wines from Portugal will be finding their way to our shores. Embrace them. I have been lucky enough to try many and they can be worthy additions to both the cellar and the table.

 


Quinta do Noval DOC Douro 2005 $89.95 per bottle in cases of 6


 


Quinta do Noval DOC Douro 2005 from Lifford Wine Agency on Vimeo.


What does it taste like?

This is a serious wine and is one of the best of the region and country.
Deeply coloured with aromas of herb and violet, it has mouth-filling black fruit, very concentrated, spicy, and very long. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave the 2004 93/100 – and 2005 is recognized as an equally excellent vintage. You can drink this now, but don’t. The tannins need time and this will become something truly ethereal with a little time. (Let’s say 4 to 10 years)

An Australian wine critic wrote:

‘The fruit is really expressive and the fleshy, soft tannins deliver a lush texture. At the same time, it has a backbone of acid that I think will allow it to age for quite some time.’

 


Why?

70% Touriga Naçional, 20% Tinto Cão, 10% Touriga Francesca.
Never heard of them? These grapes make up the backbone of great Port. They supply it with all the colour, tannin and fruit it will need for many years of ageing. They do the same for the table wines. Think of top Ribuera Tempanillos or Italian Barolos to get an idea of profile and structure. This wine is just as serious.

  • Quinta do Noval 2005: This is the flagship table wine, and for the price it is excellent value. I don’t expect this to last for ever however as the prices of the top level Douro wines are heading north. The LCBO and Vintages are trending towards more wines from the Iberian Peninsula. This will show you why.


  • Cedro do Noval 2005 Douro, Portugal. $31.50 per bottle in cases of 6.
    We have a little of this second wine left and more coming. The palate is dense, fruity and full of black fruit supported by spicy tannins. The tannins suggest some cellaring is in order. This Douro table wine is one of the best-value examples of this genre around. I am tasting this in the video. I had the Quinta do Noval at another time. Lifford was too stingy to let me try it twice!

 


What should I eat?

If you can’t bear to cellar it (or keep my emails for decades) then look to traditional Iberian dishes or go for the richer meat meals. Any stew will love it and anything with a Southern French flair (I don’t mean fish).


What else?

Quinta do Noval is famous for some of the best Ports in the world, so it would be churlish not to mention them.

10 Year Old Tawny 375ml Douro Multi-Vintage
$20.95 per 375ml bottle in cases of 12
This is full of Christmas cake and spices and mixed nuts. It has a glorious flavour of rum and raisons and is great sipping on a cold winter evening. Keep in mind you can keep one of these for a couple of weeks after pulling the cork.

LBV Unfiltered 375ml Douro 2000
$16.99 per 375ml bottle in cases of 12
This stunning wine is nothing short of a Vintage Port in disguise at a fraction of the price. This is the perfect way to finish off any winter’s dinner party.

Vintage Port 375ml Douro 1995
$49.95 per 375ml bottle in cases of 12
We have one case left. First in is best dressed.

Colheita Douro 1986
It will be here next week (somewhere under $90 per bottle we think) in cases of 6. Call if you want to know more.


What’s happening at Vintages?

2004 VINTAGE PORT (QUINTA DO NOVAL),
VINTAGES Item # 35832, $88.25 in all cities.


There is still a little of this lovely wine scattered throughout the province. Your local LCBO can order a bottle in for you if you just want one for the 25th (December that is).




Last week we ran out of Don Reca before everyone was satisfied. I apologize for that …and for this- At the time of writing I only have 7 six-packs left of Il Borro Polissena. That won’t stop me from telling you about it though.

Il Borro is dedicated to making premium Tuscan wines. Salvatore Ferragamo comes from a family more famed for their shoes than their wine. Nonetheless he has dedicated himself to resurrecting and preserving the heritage of Il Borro, following in the footsteps of his father Ferruccio. This immense estate at the foot of the Pratomagno Mountain range (they own their own Medieval village) includes some stunning terroir and a state of the art winery.

If you want you can rent a villa on the estate. The estate, which extends over 700 hectares, currently only has 40 hectares of that land dedicated to vines. The rest is dedicated to golf, horse riding and hunting (of course).

 


Il Borro Polissena 2005 $49.95 per bottle in cases of 6

  • Polissena is the only wine on the Il Borro estate made from 100% Sangiovese.
  • Polti is the highest vineyard at the Il Borro estate, approximately 350 meters above sea level.

 


 

 





What does it taste like?

‘Polissena’ is bright ruby red with an intense nose of nose of underbrush and red berry fruits. It is a dry, elegant, well balanced wine with nobile tannins and a great persistent finish. It pairs nicely with red and white meats, roasts and stews.


Why?

Planted at a density of 4,500 vines per hectare the soil is schist and marl with exceptional drainage perfect for Sangiovese.
Oenologist Nicolò d’Afflitto actually drains off about 20% of the juice before maceration to ensure greater concentration. He then matures the wine for 12 months in barriques. After bottling, Polissena remains in the cellar to age in the bottle for 6 months before being released.

This is a pure Sangiovese for Sangiovese lovers. Drink it over the next three years, but don’t be afraid to leave it a little longer.


What else?

This is the last week you will be able to buy any of our Staete Landt wines from New Zealand. They will then be out of stock for the next three months.
They include:

Staete Landt Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $26.50 per bottle in cases of 12
Wine Spectator- 91 points
'Wildly fragrant, with a bold burst of passion fruit, grapefruit, gooseberry and lime skin flavours. Grassy notes and vibrant citrus acidity pulse through the finish. Drink now. 6000 cases made.' - D.S

Staete Landt Chardonnay 2005 $34.95 per bottle in cases of 6
Sydney Morning Herald 10 June 2008 by Huon Hooke: 92 points.
A multifaceted Kiwi Chardonnay which has nutty, stone fruit and toasty barrel aromas with a lick of honey and a touch of butter. It's soft, rich and round in the mouth with a long, properly dry aftertaste. A rewarding drink.


Special Offer

The good people at Vines magazine have been kind enough to give us a special offer to pass on to Lifford clients (that means you).
Get a 1 year subscription of Vines magazine for only $7.95. (News stand price is $23.70) It would make a great holiday gift for that wine lover in your life.


What’s happening at Vintages?

Vintages have started their Online Exclusives at vintagesshoponline.com
Here are a couple of the gems available through them (and not through us).

  • Colpetrone Montefalco Sagrantino 2004 #94755 - $64.95 – 10cs of 6
  • Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Laurence Gewurtztraminer Furstentum 2004 - $89
  • Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Laurence Pinot Gris Altenbourg 2004 - $84
  • De Toren Z Stellenbosch 2004 #58743 - $32.95 - 25cs
  • Foley Pinot Noir Rancho Santa Rosa (Santa Rita Hills) 2005- #60012 - $40.95 – 15cs
  • Brokenwood Wade Block 2 Shiraz 2004 #681171 - $39

 




One of the most popular range of wines in our portfolio is the Francis Coppola Diamond Collection. I don't tend to talk about these wines because they seem to sell themselves and because I normally like to dwell on the wines you don't know about. The problem is, if I don't mention the Francis Coppola Diamond Collection, you might not know about it.

Some people make the mistake of dismissing these wines simply because they have a famous name attached to them. Don't be fooled. Francis and Eleanor Coppola bought the great Niebaum Mansion on the famed Inglenook Estate over thirty years ago. This continued a family tradition of wine making that had been passed down from his grandfather Agostino (although Agostino's wines were made in a New York basement and not California). This represents a genuine commitment to making great wine.


The Francis Coppola Gold Label Chardonnay 2006 is $21.95 per bottle in cases of 12.






What does it taste like?

This is a rich and harmonious Chardonnay. It is for people who are crying out for whites of body and intensity. Now it is more fashionable notes of elegance and crispness, but I know that some of you miss a 'big Chardonnay' now and then. Look for generous fruit flavours. For the richer dishes and cooler (O.K. colder) nights ahead, this is an easy choice when you feel like a white. It is not one for someone who only drinks Riesling, but New World Chardonnay drinkers will see very good value here. (We bought this before the exchange rate changed.)



Why?

The grapes are sourced from Monterey County. Here the warm sunny growing conditions allow for generous fruit. One of the vineyards is located in a section of the Arroyo Seco where the temperatures remain relatively cool. The fruit here maintains a crisp acidity. This gives the final wine its necessary structure.

This Chardonnay is whole bunch pressed and half is fermented in oak barrels and the other half in stainless steel. This allows for both richness and freshness. The barrel fermented wine is put through malolactic fermentation to add creamy, buttery notes. The resultant wines sees 10 months with French oak. This gives the hints of vanilla and smoke that add another dimension to the final wine.



What should I eat it with?

I am stealing these ideas directly from the winery website. They recommended both a spinach salad with toasted almonds (genius) and a classic, creamy Fettuccine Alfredo. I think these are mouth-watering combinations that will add another dimension to both the dish and the wine. To me, it sounds simple and good and perfect for a cold Wednesday night.


What's happening at Vintages?

This week sees the release of the Prodigo Malbec Classico 2005. It is available throughout the province for $15.95 per bottle (Product no.77867). Argentina has been making great wines at great prices from the Malbec grape for several years now. This is an excellent example. This wine is all black fruit and pepper and looking for something juicy and meaty. When they get together they intend to make a beautiful meal. Don't stand in their way.