Wine of the Week

Chateldon Riserva

Allow me to introduce... Pinord.

To quote the great Stephen Sondheim from his ground-breaking musical Company.

'Bobby: Where ya going?
April: Barcelona.
Bobby: Oh.'

Profound!

Priorat and Penedes are the two top quality wine regions closest to this iconic city. If Barcelona can inspire Gaudi to great architecture and Hemingway and Orwell to great literature, then it can surely inspire great wine. Priorat and Penedes are the two bastions of Catalonian quality that yield it.

Bodegas Pinord has been owned and run by the Tetas family since its inception 150 years ago. They have been a very highly regarded player on the international stage since the 1940s. Despite their reputation for traditional wines this has not prevented them from investing in a state-of-the-art laboratory for quality control.

The main attraction...

Chateldon Reserva 2002 (Penedes)
$32.50 per bottle in cases of 6
This is Cabernet Sauvignon with a small amount of Merlot. It comes from Bodegas Pinord's estate vineyards around L'Ermita de Muntanyans in the Alt Penedes. Pinord pioneered both grapes in the region.

What does it taste like?

Chateldon enjoys a deep red colour with violet undertones; clear and brilliant. There are aromas of raisins and jam with slight traces of vanillin oak and hints of spice. With its moderate ageing, tastes of preserved fruit (prune?) and raisins stand out. (Keep that in mind if you only like really young wines.) The wine has a good body and is well balanced.

Why?

There is very little rainfall in the area and this encourages concentration with the extremes in temperature being mitigated by the proximity of the Mediterranean.

The vines are trained so as to make the most of the constant sunlight.
This wine was aged in oak casks for 14 months then and kept in the bottle for one year.

It has won several medals in international competition over recent years.

And now....The Big Guns!

In 1974 the FAO released a report concluding that the ancient viticultural region of Priorat had all the natural elements to be one of the best on earth. This included vineyards between 300 and 600 metres high in perfect slate soils with little rainfall and a wind combination allowing long warm summers and cold dry winters.


Over the last ten years Pinord has recreated Mas Blanc as a top quality estate. With amphitheatres of new terraces and trellising, low yields and organic viticulture, manual pruning, picking and sorting quality is the singular goal. The Mas Blanc winery is the jewel in Pinord's crown.

Here is the result:

The Priorats of Mas Blanc

Mas Blanc BALCONS 2005 D.O.C. Priorat
$92.95 per bottle in cases of 6
Made from estate grown Grenache, Carinena, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. BALCONS is harvested and sorted manually in this barren landscape. Fermented in small tanks for 21 days, and transferred to French oak barrels where they lie for 14 months followed by several months of bottle age.
Look for violet and deep red tones. It has toasted and vanilla aromas with mature red berry fruit and pepper and clove. Soft tannins, ripe black cherry and a long finish round off the palate. These notes are typical of the varietals, but don't hint at the extraordinary depth and character. The component parts are already harmonious, but further mellowing will see even more exciting results.
Jay Miller at the Wine Advocate gave this 91 points and thought it would last in the cellar until 2020.

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Mas Blanc +7 2006 D.O.C. Priorat
$66.95 per bottle in cases of 6
Made from estate grown Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah varieties. Fermented in small tanks for 18 days, and transferred to French oak barrels where they lie for 12 months followed by several months of bottle age. Dark deep red with a fruity bouquet, complex taste of ripe berry fruit, smoke and notes of spice predominate.
The Wine Advocate hasn't tried this, but the last two vintages got a 90 and a 91 points respectively and they thought they could both last 10 years, so that's nice for them.

What else?

Firestick Chardonnay

Every summer I need a go-to white that my wife's family will enjoy. It needs to be under $20 (I'm stingy like that), but it has to taste a lot better than $20 so I can keep up my reputation with my mother-in-law. This was last summer's big hit in my household, so I thought it worth a mention.

Firestick Chardonnay Southeastern Australia 2005
$15.99 per bottle in cases of 12

 

 

What does it taste like?

Pale straw to lime in colour, this chardonnay has tropical fruit aromas of rockmelon (cantaloupe) with a hint of honeydew melon. These intense fruit characters continue onto the palate and integrate seamlessly with subtle flavours derived from the French oak. This is a wine for grilled chicken, prawns or scallops or just a warm afternoon.

Why?

The grapes were machine harvested in the cool of night to preserve fruit integrity, then transported to the Poole's Rock winery in Pokolbin for immediate crushing and fermentation. A small proportion of the wine was fermented in French oak to add complexity.

Patrick Auld is the head winemaker at Poole's Rock. His intent with Firestick is always to create a fruit driven chardonnay with delicate oak flavours.

As the label indicates, the name comes from the lightning effect that occurs when two storms intersect in the skies of South Australia. Hot dry air comes off the desert and cold storms come from the Antarctic air from the south. This is the result. It can be scary! It's no wonder I left Australia. It's like 'Journey to the Centre of the Earth' down there!

 

For the cellar:

Kooyong Estate Chardonnay 2006

 

We spend a lot of time talking about Sandro Mosele's wonderful Pinot Noirs and it tends to overshadow the great work he is doing with Chardonnay. This is an intense yet restrained wine. Sandro doesn't give in to the 'more is better' brigade and malolactic fermentation, lees contact and oak are all used sparingly to create a wine of great balance that will stand the test of time. Don't be afraid to keep this for five or more years. Equally, don't be afraid to try it so that you know I'm right!

Kooyong Estate Chardonnay Mornington Peninsula 2006
$49.95 per bottle in cases of 6

Gigi Rosso Roero Arneis

Vinitaly 2009 for under $30

When I got back from Vinitaly I told you all about the Big Guns first because we only had them for a limited time. Now it is time to turn our attention to the more moderately priced gems I found on my journey. See if there is something that suits your palate and your budget.

Piemonte:

Gigi Rosso

Maurizio Rosso is always happy to share his passion for wine and Vinitaly was no exception. The Arneis has just arrived in stock for our glorious summer ahead and Maurizio talks about this wine with an enthusiasm you would expect him to save for his top Barolo.

Gigi Rosso Roero Arneis 2008
$ 21.95 in cases of 12 per bottle in cases of 12
Appearance: Pale straw
Nose: Elegant almond, soft green fruits. Subtley aromatic
Palate: Crisp, clean, green apple, mineral and honeysuckle notes
(Maurizio says he finds honey, but I couldn’t find it.)
Ready to drink over the summer.

Marche :

Garofoli

Casa Vinicola Gioacchino Garofoli (that's Garofoli to you and me) is one of the oldest estates in the Marche (1871 for the number crunchers) and has always been one of the best. Verdicchio should be dry and delicious like this one.

Let's be very clear about how good these guys are. They have a star from Gambero Rosso (the Italian wine Bible). In order to get a star, your wines must have received the highest possible award (tre bicchieri or three glasses) at least ten times. That's a lot of love.


Garofoli 'Piancarda' Rosso Conero DOC 2006
$22.50 per bottle in cases of 12
A red with a full body and structure, Piancarda is matured in traditional oak casks for at least one year before it is sent to the market. It combines the typical aromas of cherries they grow in Rosso Conero with an imposing but pleasantly soft structure. If properly preserved, the wine can be aged for a good few years.
Rosso Conero comes from a small outcrop of land that quickly plummets into the sea. Montepulciano is the name of the grape and not to be confused with the Sangiovese made in the region of Montepulciano.
Garofoli 'Macrina' Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC 2008
$19.99 per bottle in cases of 12

In order to maintain the style of traditional Verdicchio, yield per hectare is kept low and harvesting is slightly delayed. This results in a wine that is richly complex and elegant with a solid structure that assures substantial length.

Emilia-Romagna:

Fattoria Zerbina

‘Sometimes the impact of a winery is so positive that it enriches a whole area with its quality, consistency and continuity. This is true of Fattoria Zerbina and Cristina Geminiani, who has given so much –even more than she realizes - to Romagna…’
Gambero Rosso 2007

Cristina Geminiani has devoted her efforts to the best Sangiovese she can make, and it seems she can make it very well indeed. The vineyards are the key and she swears by bush trained vines for better sun exposure. Cristina has made an art of tailoring specific clones and types of Sangiovese to the wide variety of soil types and aspects her 80 acres of vineyard holdings offer her.

Ceregio 2007
$20.95 per bottle in cases of 12
This was a huge surprise. I have had previous vintages of the Ceregio and been impressed by the purity of the fruit Cristina achieves and the value for under $20. Still, I wasn’t expecting the intensity of this 2007.
We had poured the wine into glass about an hour before it was tasted and yet it was still opening up when we tackled it and continued to improve throughout the night. 2007 was a great vintage in this part of Italy and the proof was in the pudding. If you are trying to cut the expenses, but don’t want to suffer as a result, then this is your answer.

Torre di Ceparano 2004
$28.50 per bottle in cases of 12
This was the wine we all knew would shine and it did. I have always loved this in every vintage I have had. This particular vintage has received a very respectable 91 points from the Wine Advocate and this is well deserved. With 15 months in French oak barrels (50% new) Torre di Ceparano has a mouthfilling silkiness that is hard to ignore. There is 5% Merlot and 1% Ancellota bringing extra dimension to the wine, but this is unapologetically Sangiovese in character.

Tuscany-Chianti:

Fattoria di Grignano

In the fifteenth century, the Marquises Gondi built the villa of Grignano in the middle of a vast estate that stretched from the Sieve river into the hills above the town of Pontassieve. Today this Villa is the centerpiece of Fattoria di Grignano where the brilliant Alfredo Massetti constructs some of the finest Chiantis in Rufina. These wines were a revelation to me in italy. I had never dreamed that we had anything in our portfolio that came close to the quality of the Felsina range, but these wines offer amazing elegance.

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina Toscana 2006
$ 21.95 per bottle in cases of 12
This is a traditional Chianti blend with 85% Sangiovese, 10 % Canaiolo and a remainder of field varieties. It spends 8 months in cask and 3 in bottle before release.
Appearance: bright brick red Nose: sweet red cherry and perfume (floral) Palate: lighter body, red cherry and earthy spice. Well balanced and elegant with some tannic grip.
This wine is enjoyable now, but will be safe in the cellar for a few years.

Veneto:

Speri

O.K. I know I said it was all going to be under $30, but I had this again last night and it really impressed me again. The elegance of this wine always takes me by surprise and we all watched it open up in the decanter with mounting enthusiasm. This is my choice for the cellar.

Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 'Sant'Urbano' DOC Veneto 2004
$ 80.95 per bottle in sixpacks
From Valpolicella’s best vineyard site on the Sant Urbano hill.
Appearance: deep (blood)red colour and pronounced legs (viscous)
Nose: Layers of licorice spice and deep fruit.
Palate: Rich as hell -mouthfilling. Black fruit and chocolate with surprisingly good balance and wonderful length.
Cellar it for as long as you wish. The glorious thing is that you don’t have to.

Laughing Stock 'Portfolio'

It turns out that Canada has a West Coast. (I know, I just found out too.)

Amid all the hippies, rain and nature trails they grow grapes as well, and very well at that.

It goes without saying that the best of all is made by two former Ontarians. David and Cynthia Enns used to work on Bay Street and chucked it all in to find the perfect vineyard. They searched the world before deciding on the Naramata Bench with its climate moderated by the nearby lake. This all began six years ago. They were very much aware of how crazy their dream seemed to others. David refers to the endeavour as his 'Vow of Poverty'.

The name of the winery is Laughing Stock, but no one is laughing now. Last year they won Gold at the Canadian Wine Awards.

Portfolio 2006
$62.50 per bottle in cases of 12

Portfolio is Laughing Stock's flagship wine. This is a Bordeaux blend of serious character and distinction.

What does it taste like?

The blend of Portfolio 2006 is a Bordeaux style blend composed of 61% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. Sorting tables are employed to ensure only the best fruit is used. It is aged for 20 months in French oak barrels, 40% of which are new, 60% second and third fill. The oak adds structure and some complexity without dominating the palate.

The label gets a lot of attention. The ticker tape running around the bottle lists the prices of various stocks on the TSX on the date of harvest. (Bay Street Nerds!)

Something for the Cottage

Humberto Canale Estate Pinot Noir 2007
for $16.99 in cases of twelve (12)


Recently I've been thinking about everyday wines for this budget conscious climate. While all of you at the Grand Tasting were trying things you don't intend to buy, I was sneaking around looking for things you might. Marcelo Soiza from Humberto Canale showed me his Pinot Noir.

I'll be honest. I've had previous vintages and thought, 'O.K., but I'm looking for something more.' This year they delivered the 'something more'. This is an elegant Pinot that delivers a typical varietal flavour profile (that means it tastes like it should) and it has good structure and length. It is incredibly rare to find a credible Pinot at this price-point. I was very pleased and I think other Pinot Noir lovers will be too. Finally, a Pinot you can have at the cottage!

Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc 'Te Muna Road Vineyard'

Craggy Range is the result of the combined vision of the Terry Peabody and his family and Steve Smith. The Peabodys took ten years to fulfill the dream of making some of the best wine in the world. They looked all over the world for the right place and people until Steve Smith came up with the right way forward.

The focus of several Decanter articles and interviews, Steve Smith MW is one of the most important viticulturalists in the world. He is the only specialist viticuluralist to have earned the prestigious name, Master of Wine. Steve has embraced the grape varieties that have won New Zealand world fame, but has never forgotten the love he has for the varietals of Bordeaux. As such he has searched both the North and South Islands to find the very best sites for each variety. All the bottlings are single vineyard selections to ensure that a sense of place infuses every wine. This single minded approach to matching the perfect grape to the perfect place has resulted in international acclaim and wines that will sing throughout the years. I am proud to say I have some in my own cellar.

Wine of the Week Video:

We have had a little fun with this and I recently went to The Chef Upstairs www.thechefupstairs.com to shoot the videos.
This is a cooking studio and private dining venue on Mount Pleasant Road in Toronto. Resident chef Patrick Zappia and I paired three different gnocchi dishes with three Craggy Range wines. To be honest, Patrick did most of the work, but I did the lion’s share of the drinking. I am nervous about the results, but it should be fun. The recipes were great. If you have any questions about them you can email The Chef Upstairs at events@thechefupstairs.com or reply to me and I’ll get through to Patrick.

The Wines:

Sauvignon Blanc 'Te Muna Road Vineyard' Martinborough 2006

$ 34.95 per bottle in cases of 12

Te Muna Road is in Martinborough at the Southern end of the North Island. It has a higher elevation than the surrounding district. This tends to delay picking for a week or so and gives greater crispness to the wines. The climate here tends to be more in line with the Loire than anywhere else.
The colour is pale straw with green hints. The aromas are of white peach and citrus. The mouth filling palate has apple, nectarine and even lime. The acidity and chalky texture offer a good long finish.

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Te Kahu 'Gimblett Gravels Vineyard' Hawkes Bay 2005

$ 32.50 per bottle in cases of 12

This is a great climate for the growing of Cabernet and Merlot with a long ripening season.

Steve Smith has proven that New Zealand will be a leader in the production of Bordeaux blends in the coming decade. I find this wine to be generous, approachable and it enjoys both New World fruit with old World Charm and restraint.
The blend is 58% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec.
It spends 18 month in French oak barrels, just over half of which are new. This wine has opaque colour with aromas of ripe blackberry and sandalwood. Dusty mineral notes more commonly associated with Napa combine with opulent black fruits on a palate with spices abounding and signs of early complexity on the finish.

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Syrah 'Block 14 - Gimblett Gravels Vineyard' Hawkes Bay 2006

$ 46.50 per bottle in cases of 12

It spends 17 months in French barriques, about 40% of them being new.

It has deep red colour with a vivid purple rim. This carries a singular note of white pepper along the aroma profile and onto the palate. The body is on the richer side of medium with already complex black fruit and a persistent finish.

Last chance!
Lifford Grand Tasting

New venue, but same wonderful array of wine and personalities.
It is for Delisle Youth Services, helping young people and families in crisis in the GTA.

Taste over 250 wines representing the Lifford exclusive portfolio of more than 75 producers. Meet winemakers from five continents.

Wednesday, May 6, 6:30 - 9:00 pm
Tickets: $150
This year we have moved!
Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District
55 Mill Street, Bldg 6/7

To book, just call the office on 416-440-4101.
Go to www.liffordwine.com for more information.

Tastings

For those in and around the London area, Thursday May 7th is the date to remember.
Tastings is the Black tie event of the year for anyone in London who loves the finer things in life and helping others.
The ticket price is $250 and this includes an array of wines and foods from all over the world.
Canada’s Master Sommelier John Szabo will be in charge of proceedings and there will be food from the chef’s at Idlewyld Inn, Auberge du Petit Prince, London Hunt Club and many more.
The wines are the stars in the Lifford constellation, so come and taste Come for the Champagne Reception at 6.00pm. Then stay through the live and silent auctions, food and wine and fun that follows.
It’s all in support of Cardiac Care at the London Health Sciences Centre, so come along and have fun.

For tickets call 519-685-8485 or visit www.lhsf.ca

Place your orders by replying to this email
or contact:

Lifford Wine Agency
jordana@liffordwineagency.com
Phone: 416-440-4101

Champagne Bruno Paillard Brut Premier Cuvée Champagne NV

Buongiorno!

In the ongoing nightmare that is my life, I have just returned from VinItaly in Verona. I await your sympathy letters.

Next week I will be writing about some of the wines that caught my eye, sharing complicated tasting notes and otherwise annoying you. I apologize in advance.

It was a really nice treat to be able to reacquaint myself with the Champagnes of Bruno Paillard while we were there. His lovely daughter, Alice happened to be in Verona visiting their Italian distributor. We caught up and tried through Bruno’s amazingly impressive range.

Now that we are back, it occurs to me that we still have a little of the Multi-Vintage Brut in stock. I know I only introduced this estate in December, but I was really impressed and needed to share the love.
Improvements in the exchange rate at the time this shipment landed means that the price is a little lower than our last offering, but this is still a premium wine. I know times are tough, but there are still special occasions in our lives and this Champagne is for them.

Champagne Bruno Paillard Brut Premier Cuvée Champagne NV (Multi-Vintage)
$82.95 per bottle in cases of 6

Champagne Bruno Paillard Brut Premier Cuvée Champagne NV (Multi-Vintage)
$44.50 per 375ml bottle in cases of 12

 

What does it taste like?

My tasting notes from last week record a fine mousse. (That means the bubbles are really small – the calling card of the finest Champagnes). The aromas were of delicate brioche. This comes from the contact of the lees (or yeast cells) with the wine in bottle over a period of time. It can show itself as toast or raw dough, but the most elegant Champagnes show the note I found in the Paillard wine. The palate is as crisp as I expected with the mousse filling the mouth and bubbling through the teeth into the cheeks. A persistent finish of creamy citrus makes the perfect end to this taste experience. [I know this is a long explanation, but you have a right to know where your money goes.]

Why?

The blend is 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Meunier.
70% comes from Premier Cru vines. This is important. There are lots of vineyards in the region that are not worthy of note. Bruno Paillard avoids this error and only works with the best fruit.
This is Bruno Paillard’s signature wine and is a match for most house’s vintage Champagne.

The dosage (sugar addition) is very low for Champagne at only 8 grams per litre. 14 grams is the modern standard. This explains the crispness and finesse.

What else?

If anyone is interested in my notes on their other Cuvees, just shoot me an email. They do some wonderful things for very special occasions.

Reminder: There are still a few tickets left for Ladies Night at the Fermenting Cellar (Distillery District) this Thursday night.

Come on out to support Lupus Research, taste a wide range of great and interesting wines and have all the great food you could possibly eat.

Tickets are $99 and this covers everything.

Taylor Kaye from Virgin Radio's The Rush is our MC and Justin and Colin from Home Heist will be there too! (You even get a copy of their new book with the price of admission.)

Don't drive! Grab a cab and drink responsibly. (I know you will.) Go to www.liffordladiesnight.com to book your tickets.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Dinner at Splendido

On another note, but still Champagne related, there are a few tickets still available for the Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte dinner tasting at Splendido. It is featuring Jean-Pierre Vincent, Chef de Cave of Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte on April 23, 2009, 7PM. Tickets are available at $195 each, for more information or to reserve please contact Andrew MacDonald at 416-440-4101.

Place your orders by replying to this email
or contact:

Lifford Wine Agency
jordana@liffordwineagency.com
Phone: 416-440-4101