Northridge Syrah

3 Washington Syrah Icon Wines

I have often said that you have to be just a little crazy to make great wine. I was told that I was the crazy one. Well, Charles Smith has come to my rescue with his recent blog post.

 

“… I have decided to make wine on the moon. Here's how I am going to do it: first, I need to get myself a f***ing badass spacesuit. One with some sweet Motorhead or Eagles of Death Metal patches. Now, I guess it will have to have a stadium pal attached--I mean where do you go to the bathroom on the moon?”

 

I think there is something in that for all of us.

Charles Smith is Food & Wine's 2009 "Winemaker of the Year". He has been called a genius, a terroirist, and an innovator. He is very vocal about what he believes and very serious in his intent to make the best wines in Washington.
He is the man at K Vintners. From northern California, he came to Walla Walla to start K Vintners at the end of 2001 by way of Scandanavia (this explains the hair).

He puts everything into making great wine. He has tiny yields, and equally tiny allocations. He uses native yeast fermentation, some grapes are crushed under foot, others use a gentle basket press and no fining or filtration are used in the cellar. This at once shows a unique style, while allowing the individual vineyards to fully express themselves.

Be warned: All of these wines contain more than 15% alcohol. They do not taste ‘hot’. I’ve had some higher alcohol reds that taste like someone tipped their bourbon in, by accident. This is not a problem here. The wines are well rounded and the alcohol, which is natural in an extracted red from a warm climate, is well integrated. Wahluke Slope has the warmest climates for grape growing in the state. Nonetheless, it is there and not everyone can handle that level of booze. You have been warned!

After raving about 2006, the last thing the Wine Advocate said about K vintners was:

“….a tasting of 2007 barrel samples indicate that the best is yet to come.”

At the time of writing I have 8 twelve-packs of each wine. If you are interested let me know soon.

K Northbridge Vineyard 2007
for $55.95 per bottle in cases of 12

100% Syrah. 243 cases made. The grapes are hand picked and sorted. The skins are punched down like a Burgundy and the barrels used are also Burgundian. This is a big wine.

What does it taste like?

Incredibly concentrated black fruit (both fresh a liqueur notes are expressed) with cigar box and spice. Smith says it’s ‘built like a brick sh*t-house’. I concur.

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K The Deal 2007
for $55.95 per bottle in cases of 12

100% Syrah, planted in 1997. This comes from the Sundance Vineyard of Wahluke Slope. The sandy loam soils and slight northerly aspect provides a cooler growing sight over the warm summer months.

What does it taste like?

Intense quality of blue and black fruit. There are elegant tannins from the nicely integrated oak. This has a great length of finish. This is the most restrained of the wines, but still has a big punch. The Advocate hasn’t tasted this yet, but the last two vintages received 94 points.

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K Clifton 2007
for $55.95 per bottle in cases of 12

100% Syrah. Only 243 cases made for the world. We got 8. This is because it is cropped to a minimum for concentration. The hand picked fruit is foot trodden. It is aged entirely in French oak and 30% of this is new. This is a very intense wine with high alcohol (16.5), high intensity and high impact.

What does it taste like?

Amazingly intense blueberry. Crème de Cassis and mixed berry jam with a surprising freshness and very long and seamless finish. Big and beautiful. I don’t normally like this style, but I have to admit that these are well made wines.

Bruno Paillard NV

Champagne tastes? We’ve got something for every budget.

Like many of you, I had a glass of sparkling wine with my wife on Sunday.

Unlike most of you, we do this often. Sparkling wine is the perfect way to make guests feel welcome and it is one of the most versatile wines for matching with food.

The other important point is that you no longer have to ‘break the bank’ for bubbles.

The quality outside of Champagne has increased exponentially and in turn the Champenois have had to offer better value to sustain their place in the market.

The big names are still overpriced in Ontario, but there are lots of options out there. Here are some gems that we have found.

How is it made?

All of these wines (except for the Viña La Rosa) are made using the same traditional method as Champagne. I know that doesn’t really help, does it? Here goes.

The base wine is bottled with a little sugar and yeast and undergoes a second fermentation. Just like the first fermentation, the yeast eats the sugar to make alcohol and carbon dioxide, only this time the CO2 has nowhere to go (being in a sealed bottle and all) and gets re-absorbed into the wine. Now you have bubbles in the bottle.

Why is Sparkling wine so versatile?

Simple, it tends to be quite crisp in acidity and this allows it to refresh the palate as you eat. Of course you have lighter fish and poultry dishes covered here, but a Rosé could go as far as pork, duck and even seasoned beef dishes. Don’t believe me, try it for yourself.

White

Viña La Rosa, Sparkling Chardonnay Rapel Valley, Chile 2008
$ 13.99 per bottle in cases of 6
This simple, but elegant Chardonnay-based sparkler is perfect for parties. It is dry and well made with a soft fruit-forward character. It is made using the Charmat (tank fermentation) method. Finishes long and dry but has enough weight to handle food. Great value.

Giro Ribot, Cava Brut Reserva Penedès, Spain NV
$ 22.50 per bottle in cases of 6
This is a blend of three grapes you may never have heard of before. Here are their names and what they do.
Macabeo - freshness, elegance
Xarel-lo - body
Parellada – fragrance and finesse

Cremant d'Alsace Brut Alsace, France NV
$ 24.95 per bottle in cases of 6
This is a delicate combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. It enjoys a distinctive biscuit character like Champagne and is a match for the finest palate.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière Champagne, France NV
$ 49.85 per bottle in cases of 6
This is available at the LCBO, but we can still pick up a six-pack and deliver it to you if you want.
The Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière NV is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Meunier. It is aged in bottle for 3 years. This process rounds out an elegant and refreshing wine with floral notes, a soft and persistent mousse and a long finish.

Bruno Paillard, Brut Première Cuvée Champagne, France NV
$ 79.95 per bottle in cases of 6
One of champagnes most respected boutique houses. Google them! They get nothing but love. I have never had a more elegant Champagne and I have been to the region four times and taught classes on it. The blend is 45% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Meunier.
70% comes from Premier Cru vines.

Rosé

These are all dry wines and some of the finest sparklers I’ve had were pink. They tend to be a little softer and are great with or without food.

Giro Ribot, Cava Brut Rosada Penedès, Spain NV
$ 22.50 per bottle in cases of 6
Most Rosé Cavas are made from Monastrell and Garnacha. This is a rare exception. 85% Trepat (a rare indigenous grape of Northern Spain used for Rosé) and15% Pinot Noir as used in Champagne.

Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rosé Alsace, France NV
$ 32.95 per bottle in cases of 6
100% Pinot Noir. This is an effortless and elegant fizz, more than worthy of its price. Dry and with hints of strawberry on the palate, it makes an excellent aperitif and food match too.

Nicolas Feuillatte, Brut Rosé Champagne, France NV
$ 81.50 per bottle in cases of 6
60% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay This carries beautifully balanced strawberry fruit to the mouth. It is dry, but is both soft and generous. Rosé Champagne is a delightful experience and this is a wonderful example. This is one of my favourite wines in the Nicolas Feuillatte portfolio.

Red

This is a phenomenon reserved mainly for the Burgundians and the Australians.

Shingleback ‘Black Bubbles’ Sparkling Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia NV
$ 31.95 per bottle in cases of 6
100% McLaren Vale Shiraz from one of the regions most highly regarded producers of this style. If you like this unique wine, act now, because we only bring it in once each year. This is a non-vintage wine blended from a number of years of Shiraz to create complexity and consistency in the style. It is a deep garnet in colour with vibrant bubbles. You’ll find aromas of concentrated blackcurrant with hints of spice and dark cherries. Creamy bubbles and luscious sweetness envelop the plump, blackberry mid-palate. The long fruit finish is balanced with fine tannin and acidity.

Tenuta Argentiera 'Argentiera' Bolgheri DOC Superiore

Italian Heroes

4 Reds
4 Prices
4 Italian Heroes
All in small quantities.

Tenuta Argentiera 2005 Argentiera
is $87.50 per bottle in cases of 6 (5 available)



I have been blown away by the quality, elegance and focus of this wonderful Bordeaux blend.
Tenuta Argentiera is our property in Bolgheri owned by Florentine entrepreneurs Corrado and Marcello Fratini along with Piero Antinori.
The aim is to make wines that combine the depth and finesse of the greatest wines of Bolgheri. They are off to a good start. This is their top estate wine with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.

“92 points: Berry, tobacco and light coffee aromas follow through to a full body, with spice, chocolate and berry flavors. Chewy, yet polished and long. This has a solid core of fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best after 2011” - James Suckling at the Wine Spectator

Il Poggione 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Vigna Paganelli)
is $94.50 per bottle in cases of 6

Antonio Galloni at the Wine Advocate (I am being very lazy this week),

“93+ points:
The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is made from old vines in the estate’s Paganelli vineyard in Sant’Angelo in Colle. It is surprisingly fresh in its expression of red cherries, tobacco, leather, earthiness and spices. … This is high-class Sangiovese. In the torrid 2003, winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci gave the Riserva 12 days of fermentation/maceration on the skins, and aged the wine in large French oak casks. … I wouldn’t be surprised to see the 2003 Riserva merit a higher score in a few years. …. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2028.

I was completely blown away by the wines I tasted from Il Poggione this year. …. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team have done an exceptional job for which they deserve all the praise in the world.”

(Forgive the gaps. It was too long, but all positive.)

Colpetrone Montefalco Rosso 2006
is $30.95 per bottle in cases of 6



Còlpetrone is one of the most important wine producers in the Montefalco D.O.C.G. This is a rare blend of the native Sagrantino grape with Sangiovese and Merlot to offer softness and elegance.
Sangiovese 70%, Sagrantino 15%, Merlot 15%.
This is a dense and rich wine with the ability to mature over five or more years. Now it has full bodied fruit with good balancing tannins. It is perfect for red meat. This is a consistent 2 Bicchieri winner with the Gambero Rosso.

Zerbina Ceregio 2007
is in cases of 12 and costs $19.99 per bottle



I know I talk about this all the time, but I had it again last night. For anyone who has ever loved Chianti, this 100% Sangiovese offers some of the best value in our portfolio.
Cristina Geminiani is a genius and my wife is OK with the fact that I love her.

Francis Ford Coppola Diamond Collection Gold Label Chardonnay 375ml

Half-Bottle Heaven

Happy New Year and a prosperous 2010 for us all.

Now, I know it is January and that many of you have made New Year’s resolutions about drinking less. Traitors!
We do not spend enough time promoting the fact that Lifford has one of the best ranges of Half-Bottles in the province.
So, if your usual partner has given up wine or if you just want to have one glass each on a Wednesday night, this is great.

Everything below is in 375ml bottles.

White Wine

Cabert, Pinot Grigio 2008
375ml $ 9.99 per bottle in cases of 12
Probably our biggest seller to restaurants at the moment.
Pinot Grigio from Friuli, Italy.

Ironstone Vineyards, Chardonnay 2008
375ml California $ 12.50 per bottle in cases of 12

Francis Coppola Diamond Series Chardonnay 2008
$ 16.99 per bottle in cases of 12
A white I never have to sell, because people just buy it. Reliable, enjoyable, rich and generous, this the style of Californian Chardonnay people expect.

Staete Landt, Sauvignon Blanc 2008
375ml $ 18.99 per bottle in cases of 12
A favourite from Marlborough. This will arrive in the province next week.

Red Wine

Château du Trignon, Gigondas 375ml 2006
$ 22.50 per bottle in cases of 12
Classic peppery Grenache.

Domaine des Sénéchaux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
375ml $ 33.50 per bottle in cases of 12
The great estate owned by the Cazes family of Lynch-Bages fame.

Louis Jadot, Côtes du Beaune-Villages 2007
375ml $ 20.95 per bottle in cases of 12
Floral, soft Beaune fruit with raspberry and earthy undertones.

Speri, Valpolicella Classico 2008
375ml $ 12.99 per bottle in cases of 12
A soft and forward red from our good friends in Veneto, Italy.

Felsina Chianti Classico 2007
375ml Toscana, Italy $24.95 per bottle in cases of 12
A classic producer from an excellent vintage.

Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino 2004
375ml Toscana, Italy $ 37.95 per bottle in cases of 12
This is the wine that recaptured Robert Parker’s attention. Age it or drink it. Either way you’ll love it.

Schug Carneros Pinot Noir 2007
375ml $25.95 per bottle in cases of 12
Walter Schug’s classic Pinot Noir, with lashings of Sonoma fruit and great style.

Ironstone Vineyards Merlot 2007
375ml California $ 12.50 per bottle in cases of 12

Ironstone Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
375ml California $ 12.50 per bottle in cases of 12
This is an incredibly consistent performer. Look for a mouthful of ripe blackcurrant fruit with enough body to match most meals. Great value.

Francis Coppola Diamond Series Merlot 2007
$ 16.99 per bottle in cases of 12

Sweet Wine

Castelnau du Suduiraut 2003
375ml Sauternes $ 31.95 per bottle in cases of 12
Suduiraut is Yquem’s neighbour. Quality is unquestionably high. If you like Sauternes, this is a nextar ready to drink with 6 years already in bottle. A perfect end to a great dinner party. (Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc)

Fattoria di Felsina Vin Santo 2000
375ml $ 57.95 per bottle in cases of 6
This is one of the greatest of all the Vin Santos. Toasted almonds, honey, fig, hazelnut and white chocolate are just a few of the aromas and flavours to attack the senses. This is one of the most complex and complete wines in our portfolio and it will drink or age longer than I will.

If you are passionate about great wine, then do not overlook this beautiful sweet wine.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave it 93 and said this:

Felsina’s 2000 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is a reference-point wine for the region. This rich Vin Santo flows onto the palate with coconut, spices, maple syrup and baking spices. The wine remains exquisitely balanced and deft, with a long, refined finish. For its Vin Santo, the estate uses the traditional Trebbiano and Malvasia, along with 20% Sangiovese, all of which is dried on mats until February of the following year when the fruit is vinified. The wine spent a total of seven years in 50 and 100 liter barrels. This is a Vin Santo of the highest level. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020.

Place your orders today!

Lifford Wine Agency
nick@liffordwineagency.com
Phone: 416-440-4101

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut

Nicolas Feuillatte is one of the most important houses in Champagne today.
It began as the dream of an international playboy and fine wine lover. The dream was realized in 1976 and the first bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulère NV was released in 1978. It rapidly became the wine of the elite, with Jackie Onassis, Ives Saint Laurent and Lauren Bacall amoung its ardent fans. In 1986 Nicolas Feuillatte put his name to the wines of the Centre Vinicole de la Champagne. Thus the most important producer of grapes in Champagne was associated with one of the most successful brand names in the region.

Today Nicolas Feuillatte is the voice of the growers of Champagne, making wines that rival the most famous of all the names in Champagne, but at a price that makes this sublime wine attainable on a more regular basis.

The Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulère NV is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Meunier. It is aged in bottle for 3 years. This process rounds out an elegant and refreshing wine with floral notes, a soft and persistent mousse and a long finish.

Echeverria Carmenère

Like most of you, I don’t spend every night drinking wines that cost more than my monthly cable bill. More often than not you will find me hunting for gems under $20. Wines I can enjoy without worrying about dipping into my son’s college fund.

Viña Echeverría in Molina, Chile has been the source of many of my reasonable reds over the past few years. I think it is time that I gave credit where credit is due. Roberto Echeverría is the chief winemaker at the century old, family owned estate headed by his parents. Roberto and his wife Julia came to visit this year and it was obvious that the passion and dedication is matched only by their sense of fun and enthusiasm for life’s adventure. Roberto’s third great love (after Julia and wine) is roller coasters. Enough said.

I love the Reserve Cabernet ($16.99 per bottle) and the Merlot ($13.99 per bottle) has been a huge hit for us. However, if there is one grape that defines the region and explains the potential for greatness, it has to be Carmenère.

Carmenère is originally a Bordeaux varietal that was believed to be on the verge of extinction due to its susceptibility to oidium and coulure and its relative low yields. These are problems invited by Bordeaux’s weather conditions, but not by those in Chile. In 1994 it was confirmed that Bordeaux cuttings taken and brought to Chile in the 1800s were Carmenère . They were thought to have been Merlot and were used for widespread planting. The fact that they made a deeper, tastier and richer wine than Merlot seems to have gone unnoticed for over a hundred years. Still, now we know why and a grape that struggled in France has flourished in South America. I think that is very cool.

Viña Echeverría Carmenère
for $13.99 per bottle in cases of 12

What does it taste like?

It has a red colour with an intense purple rim. It shares intense aromas of raspberry and cherry with hints of black pepper. It is both smooth and well balanced with a long and pleasant finish. This has got ‘winter weeknights’ written all over it and has enough intensity to put the cork back in and finish it the next day.

Why?

These Carmenère grapes come from ungrafted selected clones of prephylloxera French rootstock. North American rootstocks are not used and nor are any pesticides, herbicides or fungicides. The climatic conditions require none of these. I think the intensity of flavour may, in part, be due to this.

Whats happening at Vintages?

Here are two wines at completely different ends of the spectrum.
First we have a great white from a world famous estate.
Felton Road Central Otago Riesling (132035) 2007 $33.95.
This is what they call an ‘In Store Discovery’ so they are on the shelves at a few stores, but any store can order in a bottle or two for you.

Feted as one of New Zealand's best producers and justifiably so, in my opinion, for time and time again Felton Road's wines triumph against all-comers.’ – Robert Parker

The other is the Noval Tawny Port (41119) for $18.95.
I originally thought this price was for a 375ml bottle, but I’ve seen them and they are full sized. This is phenomenal value for good port and should be added to your Christmas arsenal before they run out.