Toscana/Tuscany

This is the home of not only six of the country's DOCG wines, but also the birthplace of the IGT super-Tuscans that have stirred the cobwebs from many a wallet.

The hilly countryside, with altitudes of up to 500 metres, provides some of Italy's finest wines. These hills offer aspects that allow added sunlight Sangiovese needs to ripen. At the same time they offer poorer soils that make the vines dig deep for water and mineral nutrients (fertile top soils tend to collect in valleys). The altitude itself offers temperature variation as the vines are closer to the sun by day further from the Earth's radiated heat by night. This helps retain acidity and ripening all at once. From Brunello and Vino Nobile to Chianti itself, Sangiovese has its true home in Tuscany.

Since the late 60s, we have seen the introduction of French grape varieties and small barrel fermentation that produce wines of density and extraction once eschewed in this region. The popularity of these ‘Super-Tuscan' wines around the world can only lead to an increase in this style.

Chianti
The zones of Chianti are as follows: Chianti Classico — the traditional home of Chianti and the only recognised area before 1932. Very hilly and with high altitude, these are some of the best and longest lived wines from the region.

Rufina — North-east of Florence, this tiny cool zone makes makes some of the best Chianti, but with higher acidity and fuller body than Classico.
Colli Senesi: This is the largest sub-zone so the quality of the producer is key. Overall they are best in their youth, but the warmer southerly climate makes them very drinkable when well made.

The others are Colli Aretini (medium bodied wines for young drinking from around Arezzo), Colline Pisane (light and fresh wines from the hills around Pisa), Montalbano (soft wines from west of Florence best had in youth) and Colli Fiorentini (sits between Classico and Rufina and makes all levels of Chianti). Remember there is also straight Chianti that falls outside these zones and can make some truly forgettable wines.

Bolgheri
Where? Do the names Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Argentiera help? Bolgheri is the little coastal town that lends its name to the region that proved Italy could grow world class Cabernet, Merlot and other French varietals.

It all started in 1965 when Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta decided to plant a little Cabernet sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. That became Sassicaia and that made the authorities grumpy so it had to be called Vino da Tavola. These wines have a depth of fruit character that comes from their proximity to the sea and the Mediterranean climate. Their most endearing attribute is that they tend to produce fine wines in vintages where other regions struggle, making them a consistent source of quality.

Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello is the name of the Sangiovese grape in the Montalcino area of Tuscany. This is a very young region by Italian standards with Biondi-Santi bringing attention to their potential quality in the late 1800s. Under DOCG rules established in 1980, Brunello must spend a minimum of 42 months in oak casks. This remarkably long period, can make production almost preclusively expensive and explains the proliferation of rosso di montalcino for younger drinking and faster returns for producers.

Vino Nobile di Montepulcino
Vino Nobile di Montepulcino is one of Tuscany's greatest wines. Since it became a DOCG in 1999, Sangiovese has dominated the blend although its history goes back to the 1660s. The cellarmaster of pope Paul II called this a ‘perfect wine'. That would be the equivalent of 100 points from Mr. P. these days. It tends to be richer and riper than Chianti, but not quite so aromatic.