By Steven Campbell
- BROKENWOOD (Hunter Valley) SEMILLON 2008
$25.95 per bottle in cases of 12 - NAPIER (Wellington) CHENIN BLANC 2007
$16.99 per bottle in cases of 12 - CULLEN (Margaret River) ‘DIANA MADELINE’ 2006
$100 per bottle in cases of 6 - CHATEAU GREYSAC (Médoc) 2005
$40.95 per bottle in cases of 6,
$81.50 per magnum in cases of 3 - FATTORIA DI FELSINA (Tuscany) FONTALLORO 2005
$84.50 per bottle in cases of 6 - ZERBINA (Emilia Romagna) TORRE DI CEPARANO 2005
$27.50 per bottle in cases of 12 - FELTON ROAD (Central Otago) ‘CORNISH POINT’ PINOT NOIR 2008
$74.95 per bottle in cases of 6 - CHARLES SMITH (Washington State) ‘VELVET DEVIL’ MERLOT 2007
$21.95 per bottle in cases of 12 - MARION (Veneto) TEROLDEGO 2005
$63.95 per bottle in cases of 6 - MARCO ABELLA (Priorat) CLOS ABELLA 2005
$84.95 per bottle in cases of 6. - LAURENT MIQUEL GRENACHE SYRAH GRENACHE SYRAH, Languedoc 2007
$15.99 per bottle in cases of 12
In 2008 I neglected my duties and this year the Petite Fromage reminded me that people actually liked reading about our wines, our wineries and the personalities behind the wines. Faced with such convincing logic I will once again attempt to illuminate some of my favourite wines and tell you why I have chosen them as my Twelve Wines of the Holiday Season. Grab a glass of wine sit back relax, read along and discover some of my beloved wineries and why they deserve to share the holiday season with your friends and family.
And what a year it has been. It began with a frigid economic blast of shrinking RRSPs, house values and job prospects. In the wine world the new reality meant a return to old values when wines did not just trade upon points awarded by a critic or two. Somehow we had lost our way and wines began trading at greater and greater multiples of their true value. When the crash came, the 2005 First Growths of Bordeaux trading at $1,000 a bottle came down to $350 for the 2008s.
In 2009, wines had to deliver both quality and value. This is exactly the type of wines Lifford sells!
I have spent 15 years flying to the far distant vineyards of the planet. I search for true believers who create wines that reflect their grape, their vineyard and your budget. In our community we have these true believers - people like Jamie Kennedy, Susur Lee and Chris McDonald. People who push the envelope and leave no turn un-stoned in their relentless quest for excellence. Their equivalents are in every wine region and I make it my job to find them.
So hark, as I share a tale or two and introduce you to some of those “monomaniacs” who are producing some of the most individualistic and best wines in our wonderful world.
Whites
BROKENWOOD HUNTER VALLEY SEMILLON 2008
$25.95 per bottle in cases of 12
Let’s begin with an Australian legend, Brokenwood, and the Hunter Valley’s best white varietal, Semillon. James Halliday, the Tony Aspler of Australia, was one of the original founders more than 40 years ago. Since their foundation the winery has been a cutting edge innovator. They push the quality ceiling higher while inspiring a new generation of Aussie wine makers. In 2009 Wine and Spirits Magazine named Brokenwood as one of the top 100 International wineries.
Semillon is the great white grape of Bordeaux and is the principal grape in the world’s most expensive sweet white wine, Chateau d’Yquem. The Hunter Valley has proven to be the place to make dry Semillon. In February 2008 we were in the Hunter Valley and saw with our own eyes, the glory of Brokenwood.
This Semillon delivers delicious citrus and fresh grass flavours and aromas with a crisp clean finish. If seafood, cheese or poultry are on the menu, this wine will shine.
NAPIER CHENIN BLANC 2007
$16.99 per bottle in cases of 12
In the last two years, South Africa has become a vital part of our portfolio. The quality and value coming from the southern tip of the ‘cradle of life’ is both amazing and obvious. Wines have been made here for 500 years and the recent climb to quality has channeled these centuries of experience with land and vine to make something truly special.
Napier winery was established in 1989 on land farmed since the late 1600’s. Chenin Blanc is the white grape that launched both this nation and winery on the international wine stage. It is elegant and crisp and focused. It is one of the most versatile wines for food pairing; it is a great weapon to have in any wine arsenal.
Reds
CULLEN ‘DIANA MADELINE’ 2006
$100 per bottle in cases of 6
There are leaders and there are followers. It is an honour and a privilege to represent the Cullen family who planted the very first vines in Margaret River in 1966. To represent the winery that founded this world class region is tres cool! Today, Vanya Cullen has proven that this pristine natural environment in Western Australia is perfect for Biodynamic cultivation.
The 2006 Diana Madeline was made from a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec. This wine is Vanya’s tribute to her mother “Diana Madeline” and is regarded as one of the icons of Australian wines. Cellar a legend.
CHATEAU GREYSAC 2005 – 750mL & 1500mL
$40.95 per bottle in cases of 6
$81.50 per magnum in cases of 3
Do you watch sports? Are you like me? Every spring in Toronto when the Buds are out and playoffs are on, I want the underdog to win. What better entertainment than when David defeats Goliath?
Cru Bourgeois wines are the underdogs of Bordeaux rankings with its complex levels of vainglory dating back to 1855. Smart consumers realize that in the last 154 years the winds of time have wrought countless changes. The chateaux have moved up and down as families, wars, depressions and glory years have come and gone.
In 1973, new owners purchased Chateau Greysac. The vineyards were replanted, the famed Emile Peynaud consulted and the winery has vastly improved. After 36 years, Chateau Greysac is a Goliath in your glass at a David price. 2005 is a great vintage. It has excellent concentration of rich ripe fruit. While it is capable of medium-term aging, it is sublime right now.
FELSINA FONTALLORO 2005
$84.50 per bottle in cases of 6
For years I have been singing the praises of Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Fattoria di Felsina. This year, one of Guiseppe’s competitors is reported in The Wine Advocate as having said that it was unfair competition because Giuseppe was ‘giving Felsina wines away’.
Gambero Rosso is to Italians what Robert Parker is to North Americans. Gambero Rosso chooses one winery as their “Winery of the Year”. In 2009 they chose Fattoria di Felsina.
Fontalloro is Guiseppe’s top wine and the soul of his aspirations. Fontalloro is 100% Sangiovese from his three best vineyards. It will age gracefully in the cellar for 10 to 15 years.
ZERBINA TORRE DI CEPARANO 2005
$27.50 per bottle in cases of 12
I cannot think of a better example of value than Fattoria Zerbina in Emilia-Romagna.
This wine is 100% Sangiovese and if it was Tuscan, it would be twice the price.
Cristina Geminiani is transforming the perception of the Emilia-Romagna region. She has planted high-density vineyards on her estate, producing high quality grapes, picked by hand. Keeping yields low, Cristina strives for maximum intensity of flavor. The Torre de Ceparano is a glorious glass of wine by itself with friends in front of a fire, or accompanying a holiday meal with family.
FELTON ROAD ‘CORNISH POINT’ PINOT NOIR 2008
$74.95 per bottle in cases of 6
If you cut me, do I not bleed Pinot Noir? Yes! I am so addicted to the pale red juice of this infernal, fickle grape that I must seek group therapy in far off lands. I find myself compelled to attend Pinot Noir 2010 in Wellington, New Zealand starting on February 1st. For the third time I will join 500 hundred other self confessed Pinot Noir nutters from all over the globe as we analyze and drink this nectar.
In 2007, Oz Clark, Mathew Jukes, Michael Bettane, Allan Meadows, Anthony Blue Dais, James Halliday, Norman Remington and many more joined me. This affliction is as rampant as swine flu. Felton Road and their wines are considered by this eclectic group to be the highest expression of New Zealand Pinot Noir.
If you really want to see why New Zealand is quickly becoming one to the hottest Pinot Noir producing regions in the world, you need this reference point wine. You can enjoy it right now or it can easily mellow in your cellar for a decade.
LAURENT MIQUEL ‘PÈRE ET FILS’ GRENACHE SYRAH 2007
$15.99 per bottle in cases of 12
Why does vintage matter? Wine making is inextricably linked with weather. Cold, hot, dry, wet, wind, cloud and sun blend together every year with infinitely different results.
2007 is considered to be a great vintage in the Languedoc and the result in the glass is extraordinary richness balanced in perfect harmony.
Harmony to me is the essence of a great wine. Attractive in aroma, it is welcomed onto the palate with a lushness that is seamless from the tip of your tongue to the back of your throat. The finish will change subtly as it lingers and grows more complex. Grenache and Syrah is the base blend of the Southern Rhone’s great wines that cost two or three times more than this wine.
This wine tastes great by itself and stands up to diverse cuisine.
CHARLES SMITH ‘VELVET DEVIL’ MERLOT 2007
$21.95 per bottle in cases of 12
Were you surprised to see that the #1 wine of 2009 in The Wine Spectator’s annual ‘Top 100 wines of the Year’ was a Washington wine?
Not me. In 2008 I visited Washington and tasted some great wines. Never one to start at the bottom I found icon winemaker Charles Smith. He had stirred up the wine world by putting great wine in every bottle and creating outrageous names like Kung Fu Girl Riesling, Eve Chardonnay and Velvet Devil Merlot.
I had read the venerable Michael Broadbent praising his wine in Decanter followed by an over the top gushing review in Parker. I knew Charles was on to something.
After a barrel tasting with the wine maker, Charles and his corkscrew hair show up. It is noon, he is just getting up and he is hungry. “Mexican anyone?” and we head out to a local Mexican groceteria that has a lunch counter and we sit outside with Tacos and cerveza and talk wine.
Charles Smith is a Lifford kind of guy. Over the top? Yes! Dedicated? Yes! Delivers the goods? Yes! We quickly agree to work together in Ontario and I can tell you these wines have been one of the biggest successes in the Lifford portfolio in 2009.
If my interest does not impress you, maybe this will. Food and Wine Magazine named Charles Smith their “Wine Maker of the Year in 2009.”
Velvet Devil Merlot is rich, it is full bodied and is a great match for family and friends.
MARION TEROLDEGO 2005
$63.95 per bottle in cases of 6
Stefano Campedello is my Italian brother. Stefano, and his wife Nicolla are newcomers to the wine scene in Veneto. They were fortunate to have the land, smart enough to seek expert advice, and dedicated enough to accept nothing but the very best.
Five years ago, I had never tried a Teroldego, an ancient grape from the Veneto region and so when the sommelier recommended Marion Teroldego my interest was piqued. I gave it a go.
That was a Friday and by Sunday I had tracked down Stefano. My lack of Italian and Stefano’s lack of English did not allow for much of a dialogue. We had to let the wines do the talking and the wines sung an intoxicating aria that fell upon enchanted taste buds.
In 2009 my Italian brother has emerged as a regional super star garnering Three Glass Awards from Gambero Rosso and accolades from American press.
Marion Teroldego is rich, full bodied and while there are tremendous fruit flavours there is also bright balancing acidity. Impress your friends with this vinous treat.
MARCO ABELLA CLOS ABELLA 2005
$84.95 per bottle in cases of 6.
Clos Abella reflects the characteristics and essence of Porrera in the heart of Priorat, the region that the Marco family is so meticulously preserving. The terroir is expressed through vines of thirty years of age. It is a blend dominated by Priorat's classic varieties; with 40% Garnatxa (Grenache) and 40% Carinyena (Caringnan) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The wines are aged for 18 months in Burgundian barrels. Clos Abella comes from vineyards organically farmed and grown using biodynamic methods to their particular environment.
This is their best wine. This is the essence of Priorat. If you want a window into the most exciting region in Spain today, then start from the top.
Call today and have some or all of these fabulous wines delivered to your home or office in one of our temperature control trucks.
Please have a great safe Holiday Season.
Contact Nick:
nick@liffordwine.com
Phone: 416-440-4101
www.liffordwine.com
