Varietals

Let me preface this by saying that this list is very far from exhaustive, but it does represent the majority of grape varieties that we represent here at Lifford and majority you see in Ontario from day to day.

The tasting notes are very general and it is worth noting that if you taste different things in a wine there is nothing wrong with your palate. Every wine and every palate is different and most varietal label wines have a little of something else in them (in California it can be up to 25% of a different grape. Take this with a pinch of salt.

White Grapes

Chardonnay

If you have ever had a white wine, you have probably had a Chardonnay. This is a great traveler and although the finest example still come from its home in the Côte d’Or, truly stunning Chardonnays can be found in California, South African and Australia as well as Northern Italy (to name but a few). The trick is to find the level of oak you are comfortable with; from nearly non-existent in Chablis to toasty and buttery in Meursault, to big bold and brassy in some ‘New World’ examples. The amount of lees contact determines how yeasty or bready the wine is, and malolactic fermentation gives the creamy or buttery characters we know. The blessing and curse of Chardonnay is that it is so versatile. The grape itself offers elegant citris and melon fruit in a cool climate and tropical pineapple or banana in warmer climates. It is as impossible to hate all Chardonnay as it is to like all of them. Good luck out there.

Chenin Blanc

A staple grape of the Loire Valley, seen in all the best sweet wines of this region. In recent years Chenin Blanc has found a new home in South Africa. Here it makes dry white whites of crispness and good fruit character. Oak is not used and the resultant wines are great food matches as well as being elegant enough to enjoy alone.

Cortese

The grape of Gavi. Lemony-fresh and with enough body to match a meal, this is the great dry white wine of Northern Italy.

Furmint

Furmint is the grape responsible for Hungary's great dessert wines from the Tokaj-Hegyalja region. The grape itself is rarely seen outside of Hungary. It is used to produce dry white wine, as well as dessert wines. Dry wines made from the grape can be of good quality, possessing excellent acidity and often possessing an oxidized quality of honey and dried fruit. The grapes of the vine have thin skin, making them particularly susceptible to Botrytis Cinerea.

Gewürztraminer

A truly unique grape. Although believed to be Italian in origin, its name is German and its best experession is in Alsace (where they don’t use the umlaut). Gewurz is known for having high natural alcohol and a relatively low nature acidity. As such it is one of the few ‘noble’ grape varieties to have a notably short finish. It doesn’t like to hang around in the mouth. The key to this grape is its pungency, it smells distinctly of tropical fruit and most people will find lychee. It also takes on noble rot quite easily, so a lot of Alscaian sweet wines are from this varietal. The dry version makes a perfect accompaniment to the less chili infused Asian dishes.

Godello

This is a rare and hard to find grape native to the Valdeorras region of Galicia in the green North West of Spain. The grape has a crisp freshness and apple character with a pleasing hint of bitterness in the aftertaste.

There is some debate as to whether this is the same varietal found in Madeira as Verdello or in other regions of Spain and in Italy as Verdelho.

Muscat/Moscato Bianco

This is the only grape variety that genuinely smells and tastes like grapes once it has been fermented. In Alsace, it is traditionally drunk as a daily aperitif. It is ideally suited to cool climates and the fourth most planted grape in Italy. Increasingly popular in its sweet semi-sparkling form in Piedmont, Moscato d’Asti. This is by far the best appellation for sweet sparkling wines. It is worth noting that this is Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, which is why we all just call it Muscat.

Picolit

This is obscure. A grape from Friuli, it makes a specific style of sweet wine with the same name. The grapes are picked in mid-october and then left to dry on mats in much the same way as an Amarone although some modern producers opt for a later harvest instead.

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris

Same grape, but two very different wines. As a rule, the Italian style is picked early to keep a high level of acidity and a neutral taste to the wine. The Alsace version is picked considerably later to allow the grapes to express their nutty, honeyed and tropical fruit characters. Both examples are dry and have a characteristic bitterness on the finish, but Alsace also makes sweet Vendage Tardive and botrytis effected versions (that are considerably more expensive).

Riesling

This is my vote for the most noble of all grape varieties. Why? It achieves its greatness without the aid of oak, malolactic fermentation and lees contact. It achieves greatness in the marginal climate of Mosel, the dry hills of Alsace, the warmth of the Clare Valley and many others. It makes some of the worlds greatest sweet wines, both here and in Germany, and its steely dryness in Australia and France is amazingly refreshing. Here’s the best thing. It ages and ages and gains complexity. Its natural acidy gives the backbone in needs and it perfectly expresses its origins and terroir, like a great Pinot. It expressed minerality and then (some say) kerosene. The fruit of Clare Valley is lemon and lime and I cannot think of a better accompaniment to seafood or Thai cooking. Buy Riesling, cellar Riesling and drink Riesling!

Sauvignon Blanc

It’s always nice to have this in a blind tasting. Distinctive crispness, gooseberry or cat’s pee on the nose and maybe a little passion fruit on the palate, but it is always pungent and powerful, even in its more restrained guise in the Loire. Part of its charm is that sauvignon is always dry, never heavily oaked and always refreshing. You know what you are getting. It may not be the best ager and it may not dazzle the critics, but I say we keep drinking it. Agreed?

Semillon

Along with its side-kick Sauvignon Blanc (that has been stealing all the applause lately) Semillion makes one of the world’s greatest sweet wines. Sauternes is the perfect desert wine and makes anyone’s apple pie taste good. It’s lightness of touch and lemony crispness also makes the Hunter Valley’s most famous white wines and some wonderfull examples from other lands. However, it is its ability to absorb Botrytis Cinerea (Noble Rot) that makes this grape great.

Symphony

This is a crossing (when a mummy and daddy vine love each other very very much…) or Grenache Gris (don’t pretend you have heard of it) and Muscat of Alexandria. It was connected in UC Davis by a man by the name of Olmo in the middle of last century. The result is a highly aromatic and fruit driven wine. It is normally seen as an off-dry table wine and normally grown in its birth place in California.

Torrontes

This is the name for a group of similar varieties originally from Spain that are now found in white wine production throughout Argentina. Torrontes tends to higher alcohol and a hint of pleasing bitterness that makes it a good companion to food. This is in part due to its relatively high acidity. It can be highly aromatic and have slightly grapey notes, much like Muscat.

Verdejo

This is an aromatic and herbaceous variety with high acidity. This can age and take on nutty notes. In its youth it makes wines that are crisp and elegant and great with seafood. It finds it fullest expression in Rueda that is quickly becoming the home of memorable Spanish whites.

Verdicchio

The great grape of the marche region of Italy. It produces excellent sparkling wines, but is most noted as Verdicchio dei Casteli di Jesi. Here it makes a lemony crisp wine with hints of bitter almond. The grapes are normally fermented on their skins to give added character and body. This is one of the famous traditional wines of the world and when it is made correctly (and not just for tourists) can be quite special. If you are looking for an interesting alternative to Pinot Grigio, I think you may have found it.

Viognier

This is a very fashionable grape variety found throughout the world, but originating in Condrieu in the Northern Rhone. It produces floral, fruit-forward wines with stone fruit notes or tropical notes when made in a warmer clime. It is best consumed in its youth, when the characters are most to be noticed.

Viura

This is the most important ingredient in modern white Rioja. It is also often seen as a back up grape to verdejo in the dry whites of Rueda.It is known as Macabeo in the Penedes where it is used as the basis of the famous Sparkling wine, Cava. It tends to produce floral characters with low acidity (thus it moderates Verdejo).

White Zinfandel

This is just Zinfandel. It is made by fermenting Zinfandel without the skins to make a sweet pink wine.

Red Grapes

Barbera

This sits between Nebbiolo and Dolcetto on the Piemontese hierarchy. Some notable ageworthy examples have been made to compete with the former, while the grape is often seen in the same role as the latter. This is the wine you see most people in the region drinking. Red cherry (or sour cherry) is the dominant fruit with perhaps a little plum.

Cabernet Franc

This is the main red grape variety for quality reds from the loire valley. It is a vital blending component for Merlot based Bordeaux wines. This is because it gives structure with its higher natural acidity. When under ripe it tastes like bell peppers, with enough sun you get red fruit like raspberry or strawberry and will also give some herbal notes. It makes really well balanced big reds in warm climates. Hello Ironstone!

Cabernet Franc Blend

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cannaiolo

Often seen in Chianti blends where historically it held a far more important position. These days it is diminishing and seen to be of less interest and character than sangiovese, which dominates these blends.

Carmenère

Historically mistaken for Merlot throughout Chile. Now it is the only place it is produced in any quantity. Who knows why, because it ripens considerably slower than Merlot, even after Cabernet Sauvignon. The cuttings originally came from Bordeaux, where it is now almost extinct.This Grape was not ever really officially planted. When produced with low yields it gives a wine with Cabernets structure and Merlot’s plump fruit. That can lead to very fine wines.

Cinsault

Soft, forward fruity and elegant. Cinsault is highly underrated. In its youth, this red grape is more charming than most and is one of the gems of southern France. This might be why is makes such an appealing rosé style, with strawberry and raspberry fruit. It is also one of the permitted varieties in Châteuneuf-du-Pape.

Corvina

This is the heart and soul of Valpolicella and Amarone (and Bardolino if anyone cares). It has a classically Italian sour cherry flavour and lends itself well to food and to the recioto drying process used in the making of Amarone. Here the wines have glorious notes of dried fruit (not surprisingly)and remarkable body. Molinara and Rondinella are seen in the Valpolicella blend, but that make only a minor contribution to the flavour profile.

Dolcetto

The ‘little sweet’ grape of piemonte makes fruit driven wines designed to be drunk in their youth while you are waitng for those Barolos to age. Their approachability is their charm and they make an excellent food accompaniment.

Gamay Noir

An elegant and juicy grape that finds its home in the Beaujolais area of southern Burgundy. It tends to be fresh with zippy acidity and has a pale bluish colour with lots of fresh fruit. The winemaking technique of carbonic maceration often makes the wines deeper in colour and fruit flavour with boiled sweets or even bubblegum on the nose. Don’t expect that in the premium examples.

Grenache

This is the main grape of the Southern Rhone seen in those wonderful food wines like Chateauneuf-du-pape and Gigondas. It is also a vital component throughout its original home of Spain. Red fruits like strawberries and white pepper are obvious notes. It tends to age quickly and have a higher alcohol than most and is often used in blends to beef up the body while making them more approachable. Old vine Australian examples from places like McLaren Vale and the Clare Valley can be remarkable.

Grenache blend

Malbec

Originally found in the obscure cahors region of South-west france, Malbec has now found its new home in Argentina. Here is makes some of that country’s most interesting reds. It is sometimes seen as a blending component in Bordeaux, but can make unique and idiosyncratic wines wherever it is planted. Deep in colour and with dark fruit and an unmistakable peppery spice, this grape makes a wine that is waiting for a steak.

Merlot

This is the grape of Petrus and Le Pin, the two most expensive wines in Bordeaux, so show some respect. Most people taste red fruit like plums (or even raspberries). Acids and tannins tend to be lower than cabernet and this may be why it seen as more approachable in its youth. Warmer climate gives darker fruit and even fruitcake. It is a versatile match for all red meats and hearty vegetarian options.

Merlot Blend

Monastrel/Mourverde/Mataro

This is the grape red grape variety of Alicante and Provence (and also seen in Australia and California). Here we find deep and intense blackberry fruit, heaps of tannic structure and peppery spice. These wines are still seriously underrated and have great ageing potential.

Montepulciano

Nebbiolo

Barolo, Barbareso and Laghe all hang their hats on this grape. This is a capricious grape that rivals Pinot Noir for hardest to grow. Like pinot, it can be elegant and ethereal with age. In its youth however, it is a very different animal. Big and tannic and high in acid, Nebbiolo has some floral notes and savoury red fruits. This is one of the great agers and will repay as much patience as you have in a great vintage. A classic.

Nero D’ Avola

Look here for amazing value red wines from Southern Italy. Nero d’Avola is mainly found in Sicily where it gives big and bold fruit driven reds that have great body and aging potential. It offers hints of chocolate amid the plum fruit.

Petit Verdot

Normally this is seen as a minor blending component in Bordeaux where it offers depth of colour, but rarely makes up more than 3% of the blend. It is a thick skinned grape with very small berries. When seen in larger proportions, it makes inky deep wines with tannin and black fruit characters worthy of long term ageing.

Pinot Noir

This is the heartbreaker. Notoriously difficult to grow because it has very thin skins that make it susceptible to anything you can think of and very difficult to get a depth of colour. In a warm environment it ripens way too quickly and gives dull and overpriced wines. In a marginal (read cold) climate when it all goes right it makes the best wines on the planet. Red fruits of raspberries and strawberries with an elegance and concentration that is almost ethereal combine with vegetal notes like truffle. This grape can express its origins like no other (with the possible exception of Riesling) so you had better get it from somewhere interesting.

Pinotage

This is the lovechild of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, but like most errant children, has nothing in common with its parents. This is a very South African affair and makes big steak wines with a very distinctive smokiness.

Primitivo

Grown principally in Puglia (Italy’s ‘heel’), but seen throughout Southern Italy. It is a decendant (along with Zinfandel) of Croatia’s Crljenak Kastelanski grape. Look for the same rich and chocolately plum and raisin characters that we associate with its more famous Californian relative. More and more, Californian producers are finding they actually have Primitivo in their Zinfandel. This is probably good news, given that it offers the characteristics with far more disease resistance.

Sagrantino

This is the unique quality red grape of umbria centred around the village of Montefalco. It distinguishes itself with skins full in phenolics bringing depth of colour, flavour and a powerful tannic structure to the final wine.

Sangiovese

The most important grape in all of Italy and the basis of Chianti , Brunello, Vino Nobile and the best reds of Romagna. The fruit is unmistakably cherry and dried herbs are an often observed note. This grape has great quality and ageing potential.

Shiraz / Syrah

Originally this was the main grape of the Northern Rhone and made some of the world’s most expensive wines like Hermitage. Now it is the main grape of Australia and makes some of the world’s most expensive wines like Grange. Of course, it also makes some more affordable gems. This is a thick skinned black grape that offers blackberry fruit and a hint of pepper. It can make some of Australia’s biggest reds and some of France’s best food wines.

Shiraz/Syrah Blend

Tempranillo

The great noble grape of Spain whether it is called Tempranillo (La Rioja) or Tinta de Toro (Toro) or Tinta del Pais or just Tinto Fino (Ribera) or Aragonez (in Alentejo)…I think you get the point. Everyone in Spain wants to claim this as their own. Wherever you find it, it offers wines of depth and savoury fruit character with leather and spice to accompany the red fruit notes. In Portugal it is seen as one of the key ingredient of Port, as Tinta Roriz.

Tempranillo Blend

Teroldego

This is a rare northern italian varietal not often seen outside of Trentino. It has red fruits, and hints of tar, pine, and almond good acidity.

Tinta Roriz

See Tempranillo.

Touriga Francesa

The most widely planted grape in the Douro of Portugal. It is seen as one of Port’s best varieties and offers a great perfume, although it is considerably softer than Touriga Nacional.

Touriga Nacional

Key grape in Douro and Dao in Portugal. It offers great depth of flavour and colour as well as a remarkable acidity and tannin structure. All these attributes make it the perfect base for the great fortified wine of the Douro, Port. Still, we are seeing more and more ‘light’ table wines made from this grape by key young producers. It will not be long until these agable gems make an impact on the Ontario market.

Zinfandel

This is the standard bearer for California. Cool climate gives plum and pepper and warm climate offer blueberry. Either way you get full bodied wines with high alcohol. It doesn’t like a lot of oaking. That means it is perfect for turkey, a drier meat that doesn’t like drying oak and needs a lot of fruit for balance. Happy Thanksgiving!

Zinfandel Blend